You’ll need:Materials

You’ll also need contact adhesive for gluing,30mm and 45mm cross-head screws,wet & dry sandpaper and white snap caps. Standard,16mm thick x 600mm wide, Melamine-coated particleboard shelving is available in sheet lengths of 1.8m and 2.4m. Our unit used 8 x 2.4m sheets.

Here’s How

1.The crucial measurements are the opening where the unit will be built and the size of the chest of drawers you will use. Often walls aren’t quite square, so subtract about 20mm all around–this also allows for the thickness of skirtings. Leave enough space above the chest of drawers to hang clothes. We made our unit in two sections for easy installation in a room with a ceiling height of 2.7m. Our two units were 2100mm and550mm high, by 1630mm wide and 550mm deep, with an opening of 950mm for the drawers.

2. Cut the three tall sides (A) and a base (B) . Use a power saw for the cuts,setting the blade just deep enough to cut the panels. Work with the good side (the one most likely to be seen) face down, as there is likely to be some minor chipping of the Melamine on the saw side.

3. To fix bottom and top to two sides, pre-drill for four screws per joint and countersink for the screw heads. Working with panels on their back edge, apply a small amount of contact adhesive,then screw together, making sure front edges are flush. It’s best to get someone to help hold the panels.

4. From the inside edge of one side,measure 950mm along the top and bottom of carcass. Square a line across the board and use this as a guide to pre-drill and countersink the top and bottom. Glue and screw divider in place.

5. From the top, measure down both sides of the narrow opening at increments of 346mm–that is,346mm,692mm,1038mm,1384mm and 1730mm. Square a line from the back to within 50mm of the front. Cut the cleats (C) with an optional 45° mitre on the front ends, and paint them to match if you wish. Glue and screw the cleats to the sides with the top edges on the lines and the back flush with the rear of the panels. Use the shorter 30mm screws.

6. Cut the shelving (D) to suit. Ours is set back 10mm from the front.After pre-drilling, screw shelves to battens with two 30mm screws per cleat.

7. Get help to stand the unit in place–it will be quite floppy-and check the fit.Check with the spirit level to make sure the sides are vertical. Measure the gaps between the sides and the wall;measure the wall in three places and mark these positions. Lay down the unit, and cut off cuts of shelving or plywood to make up the thickness of packing required, and nail to wall studs or plug into masonry. Carefully slide the unit back in place and screw the sides into the packers to hold it in place.

8. Make the top unit the same way as the bottom one by screwing the top and bottom (B) to the sides and the divider(E). Fit packing pieces to the wall near where the top of the unit will be, then slide the unit in place. Screw the top unit into the top of the bottom one with 30mm screws, as well as to the packers.

9. Cut the chrome hanging rail(F) with a hacksaw so it fits the wide opening. Smooth the ends with wet&dry sandpaper and loosely fit on the rod sockets(G). Centre and space the rail from the underside of the top to allow easy removal of clothes hangers and mark screw holes at both ends. Pre-drill holes for the sockets,then install with screws provided. Finish off by pressing small snap caps into any exposed screw heads.Slide in the chest of drawers and your open robe is finished.

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Any home handyman knows the value of a workbench.This one provides plenty of work space, a large shelf, and a perforated peg-board backing for hanging tools. The tabletop is made of 3/4″ wafer board covered with 1/4″hard-board.The workbench shown here is 8′long, but you can make it any length to fit your work space.

1. Cut all pieces to size according to the dimensions given.
2. Assemble the support frames (F) for the tabletop (B) and the shelf (J) by fastening the fronts and backs to the crosspieces(G) using 12d nails. In both cases, position one cross-piece at each end and one across the middle. Add two more cross-pieces to the top frame to help stiffen the tabletop work surface.
3. Cut a 3-1/2″-wide x 3/8″-deep rabbet across the top of each front leg(D) for fitting the top frame on the legs. Then cut dadoes of the same dimensions at a parallel location across each of the back legs(E). Also,cut parallel dadoes across each leg about 8″above the bottom for fitting the shelf frame between the legs.
4. Fasten the legs to the frames using#8×2-1/2″ flat head wood screws countersunk flush with the leg surface. Use at least two screws per joint and offset them for increased frame stability.
5. Cut 3-1/2″-wide x 1-1/2″-deep notches in the front edge of the shelf, one at each end and one in the middle, in order to fit the shelf around the front legs. Cut parallel notches of the same width,but3/4″in depth, on the back edge of the shelf for fitting around the back legs.
6. Insert the shelf between the legs and fasten it to the support frame using#8 x 1-1/2″flat head wood screws, countersunk flush or driven slightly below the shelf surface. If you like,run a bead of construction adhesive along the upper edge of the frame before installing the shelf.
7. Set the tabletop base(A) on the top frame. Push the top against the back legs and center it along the length of the support frame.
8. Clamp or tack the top in place while drilling countersunk pilot holes for#8 screws through it into the frame. Space the holes about12″apart. If you want to use construction adhesive, remove the top and spread a bead of adhesive on the top of the frame. Then reposition the top and fasten it in place using#8 x 1-1/2″ flat head wood screws. Drive all the screws slightly below the surface of the tabletop.
9. Position the tabletop over the base, making all edges flush. Then fasten the top to the base using#6 x 7/8″ flat head wood screws, driven slightly below the outer surface.This installation method will allow for periodic replacement of the tabletop.For permanent installation, apply construction adhesive to the base, position the tabletop over it,and press it flat,then tack it in place.
10. Place the bench in the desired location and shim the legs as needed to make the top completely level and to stabilize the bench. Then use angle irons to fasten the legs to the floor,or run fasteners through the back legs into the wall,or do both.
11. Set the backing(C) on the tabletop.Center it along the length of the bench, then fasten it to the upper section of the back legs and to the crossbar(H)using#6 x 7/8″ flat head wood screws.

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After the material has been dimensioned,lay out,joint and glue the stock for the top. Construct the leg assemblies next.

After laying out the feet but before profiling them on the band saw, cut the 2″-deep mortises that will receive the leg tenons. This can be done on the drill press, clamping the work to a tall fence custom-made for this operation. You can also cut the mortises by hand, securing the work in a vise, then removing the bulk of the waste with a drill bit, and cleaning up the mortise walls with a chisel. Similarly, cut the through mortises in the two cross braces. Profile the feet and cross braces on the band saw.

Then, fashion the leg tenons. You can do this on a table saw fit with a stack of dado cutters or by hand using a tenon saw. After fitting the tenons into their mortises, glue-up the two leg assemblies.

Shape the stretcher and fasten it to the top of the cross braces with half-notch joints. The top is held in place with wood screws passing through oversized holes in the braces. These oversized holes allow for expansion and contraction of the top in response to seasonal changes in humidity.

The original table was built of cherry with pine used for the drawer back,sides and bottom. The exception was the drawer front, which was made of maple.Because of this, Kassay suggests the possibility that the drawer might have been added at some time after the completion of the original table, a notion further supported by the drawer’s extremely (and impractically) short front-to-back depth, a feature that suggests that the drawer wasn’t fully integrated into the table’s design.

With the exception of the grooves that must be ploughed on the outside faces of the drawer sides, drawer construction is conventional, with through dovetails at the rear and half-blind dovetails at the front.

After fitting the drawer, sand and finish the table and drawer.

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Step by Step Nesting Table Blueprint

Make a Slab

Start the tables by ripping three sheets of plywood in half to just under 24″ in width.You won’t need all that width,but it will come in handy later.As for the lengths, using the full 96″is a little wasteful,but it makes gluing the two halves together easier.

After ripping the sheets, determine which three faces are most attractive and mark these as the outsides of the tables. Next glue the pairs together. To keep the sheets from sliding around during glue-up,pound a nail into each slab about 1″ from the ends. These ends will be cut off anyway, and it makes glue-up much easier.Stack the three pairs together,then clamp across the stack using stout wood braces to spread the pressure.

After the glue is dry, square off one end of each slab. Then cut the slabs to 68″,62-1/2″and 55″ in length. Don’t pitch the fall-off pieces,they’ll be useful later. Next rip each slab to 23″ wide to give you one flat edge.You could run one edge over a jointer,but the adhesive in plywood is murder on high speed steel knives.When you have one square edge,set the table saw’s blade to bevel at 33′ and rip the three slabs to 21-5/8″, 20-5/8″ and 19-5/8″ wide respectively. Again,save the fall-off.

Homemade Veneer

You’re now ready to run some solid lumber to cover the plywood edges. I used soft maple edging on my birch ply tables.

Run out six lengths of 3/16″-thick solid wood for the edges. To plane wood that thin, you probably will have to put an extra board over the bed of your planer—most planers aren’t designed for wood that thin.

With the strips ready, it’s time to glue them to the slabs.Go find the fall-off from the bevel cuts and grab a couple other sturdy solid strips. Use the fall-off as a caul for clamping. By gluing the edges on the slabs with the bevel facing up, gravity is on your side.I also cheated a little by tacking the edge strips in place with a few small brads at either end.Once again,the extra inch in length will be cut off,so the nail holes won’t show.

Glue the edging to the three slabs, then trim the edging flush to the plywood. I used a router with a flush-cutting bit for the back edges, and I used a jack plane to get the beveled edges nearly flush.Then I used a random orbit sander to flush the edges perfectly. To soften the edges I used some 120 grit paper and a block of wood to round over the sharp edges.

Make Your Miters

The tables slip inside one another with a?”gap between each,so accurate cutting and spacing is important. To make the mitered corners and still maintain the grain pattern on the table tops, first crosscut the three slabs into three parts. Use the table saw with the blade set to 90′. Start by marking the middle of each slab and cut the top section from the middle of each slab, allowing the excess length to remain on the leg sections.

You’re now ready to do the precision cutting, and you’ll see quickly why a sharp blade is important.Start with the largest top (22″x 22″) and set the blade bevel to exactly 45′ and the rip fence to cut the miter exactly to the width of the top.If you have a left-beveling table saw you’re in luck as the inside of the table is on the tear out side. If you have a right tilt,that sharp blade is important.Make the first bevel cut on one end,then spin the top and make the cut on the opposite end. Again,with a right tilt you have the extra difficulty of the first miter trying to slide under the rip fence. Adjust your cut for any variance and consider adding an auxiliary fence that fits tight to the table surface. Repeat this with all three tops.

You’re now ready to make the miter cuts on the legs.Start with the 22″-high legs and work through the 20-1/4″-and 18-1/2″-high legs,checking the spacing between the tables by “dry-nesting” as you go.

Assembly

The hard part is done.The rest is biscuits and clamps.I used four#20 biscuits for each miter joint. With the biscuits cut,the fall-off pieces from cutting the slabs to length come into play. You’ll stick them between the legs while gluing up the miters. It makes glue-up much easier. First check the internal dimension between the miters on each table top.Try to be as exact as possible,then cut spacers from the fall-off pieces for each table. Finish sand the interior faces of each table and the beveled front edge of each piece before assembly. Put glue on the miters and biscuits and glue the tables. Pay careful attention to the miter joint where the top and legs join.Unlike the hardwood edging,you only have about 1/16″of veneer to sand to match the joint.

With the tables assembled sand the outer faces,paying extra care with the mitered joint.You’re now ready to finish. I chose to simply add a few coats of clear finish to the tables,but any number of stains to match an existing decor will work well.

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Here’s a toy that’s sure to fascinate children:a duck that waddles across tabletops. It’s powered by a 5/8″ steel hex nut that acts as a drive weight. Just hang the hex nut over the edge of a table and give the duck a nudge sideways; it will rock from side to side and walk toward the edge of the table.

1. Make full-size templates for the body (A) and legs (B) using the patterns provided. Cut out the shapes and rout or sand all edges.
2. Drill a 1/4″-diameter eye hole and a 1/4″-diameter hole to accommodate the leg pivot (C) in the body where indicated.
3. After cutting the leg pivot to size, drill a 3/32″-diameter hole 3/16″ in from each end to accept the drawstrings.
4. Glue the leg pivot in place in the body.
5. Drill a 9/32″-diameter hole in each leg where indicated to accept the leg pivot.
6. Sand the bottom edge of each leg so that it angles 10° up toward the outside.
7. Slide two flat washers and one leg onto each side of the leg pivot.
8. Tie a drawstring to each end of the leg pivot, and tie the free ends of both drawstrings to the hex nut.
9. Finish as desired,and the duck will be ready to waddle.

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Here is a basic table design that can accommodate many uses. The table shown in the photo was made of redwood and assembled using waterproof glue and galvanized fasteners.Because it was designed to serve as a deck table,it is somewhat low in height. However,you can easily substitute other woods,use standard glue and fasteners,and raise the column height a few inches to create a handsome reading or dining table for the interior of your home.

1. Use the pattern provided to make a template for the feet(B), then lay them out on the lumber. By alternating directions and overlapping the feet,you can cut them out of 2 x 8 stock with minimal waste.
2. Form the top(D) by edge-gluing three pieces of 2 x 8 stock (or more numerous pieces of narrower stock). After the glue dries, sand the panel flat and trim it to the finished dimensions given in the list. Round overall edges with a router.
3. Cut the remaining parts to the dimensions provided.
4. Arrange the column sides(A)with their edges chasing each other,then fasten them into square columns using wood glue and 3dfinishing nails. Set the nails just below the surface.
5. On the stretcher face of each column, center and drill a pair of 5/16″-diameter pilot holes, one2-1/2″and the other 5″from the bottom. Center and drill a pair of holes of the same diameter through the remaining faces of each column; locate these holes 1″ and 3-1/2″ from the bottom.
6. Center and drill a pair of 7/32″-diameter pilot holes into each end of the stretcher(C) and into the back of each foot, using the same2-1/2″ center-to-center spacing used on the columns. Set the lower holes in the feet 1″ above the bottom edge of their backs as indicated in the template pattern. Locate the holes in the stretcher 1″ up from the bottom and 1″ down from the top edges. Drill these holes as deep as necessary for installing the lag-thread ends of the hanger bolts.
7. Lag the hanger bolts into the feet and the stretcher,then fasten these parts to the two columns.Secure the bolts with lock washers and nuts.
8. Center the top brackets(E) over the column tops and fasten them in place using #8×1-1/2 flathead wood screws.
9. Lay the top upside down on a flat surface. Miter the ends of the apron pieces(F,G), then arrange them in a rectangle on the underside of the top.Make sure the apron is centered along the length and width.
10. Fasten the apron to the top using#10 x 2-1/2″countersunk flat-head wood screws. Avoid using glue in this assembly since both the top and apron will tend to expand and contract with changing humidity.
11. Center the apron/top assembly over the leg/column assembly.Fasten them together by driving#8 x 1-1/2″ flathead wood screws through the brackets into the top.(You will find this easier to do with the entire assembly turned upside down.)
12. Sand the table and finish according to taste.

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You’ll always have a place to hang your hat with this easy-to-build hall tree. And by replacing the brass hooks with pot clips, you can turn it into a plant pole that is perfect for hanging vines.Either way,it’s a useful addition to any home.

1. Begin by cutting all pieces to the listed dimensions.
2. Arrange the column sides(A) so their edges chase one another, creating a square column. Counterbore pilot holes and fasten the column sides together using wood glue and flat head wood screws. Fill the holes with wood plugs. (To avoid counter boring and plugging,use finishing nails instead of screws.) Sand the column,making the plugs flush with the other surfaces.
3. Center and drill a 5/16″-diameter hole through each column side1-1/2″from the bottom to allow insertion of hanger bolts.
4. Lay out the final shape for the feet(B) using the template provided.Drill 7/32″-diameter pilot holes for the hanger bolts in the back edge, then cut out the feet.Round over all edges except those that will meet the column.
5. Chamfer the upper edges on each of the three top pieces(C,D,E), then attach them to the bracket(F) using wood glue and finishing nails. Begin by fastening D to C,then E to D,and finally F to E. Make sure the smaller pieces are centered on the larger ones.
6. Round over the corners of the column and the sharp lower edges on the largest top piece. Spread glue on the bracket edges and fit it inside the upper end of the column.
7. Finish the tree and the feet as desired.
8. Screw the hanger bolts into the feet, then mount them on the tree, securing them with lock washer sand nuts.
9. Install brass hooks and the tree is ready for your hats and coats.

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TV Cabinet Builder’s Tip: When building quality furniture, remember all wood grains should “run” in a certain direction. For this project: sides and back-vertical; top and bottom-left to right.

1. After checking direction of wood grain,rough cut all members(slightly over sized).Note:The easiest way to work a large sheet of plywood initially is by placing it on top of three lengths of 2×3s laid across a pair of sawhorses. This improvised “table” puts the material at a convenient height.
2. Using a securely-clamped 4-ft.T-square as the straightedge,carefully trim the top,shelf,bottom and side pieces to size.Note:Back and tray piece will be trimmed later.Builder’s Tip:Whether you use a table,radial arm,or portable circular saw,a fine tooth,plywood veneer blade should be installed to ensure perfectly clean cuts.Always cut wood with the veneer side down when using a portable circular saw,and with the veneer side up when cutting with table and radial arm saws.
3. Mark locations for ploughing all dadoes and rabbets on sides,top and bottom pieces.Builder’s Tip:No edge rabbet is required at back edge of the top piece to accommodate the back piece because the back is installed with a 2″space between its top edge and the cabinet top. This space ensures ventilation for the VCR, plus easy ingress/egress for the cords.
4. Plough grooves and rabbets using a 3/4″ straight bit in the router guided by a securely-clamped straightedge. If necessary,set up dado heads in the table saw to make these cuts.Builder’s Tip: Cut edge rabbets for bottom piece in veneer side of plywood, so “good” side will face up into the cabinet.All other rabbets should be cut into the non-veneer or “lesser” side of the plywood panels.

Cabinet Assembly

1. Temporarily assemble cabinet by tack-nailing parts together with partially driven 1-1/4″ finishing nails; if necessary,use several bar clamps as well.Note:Try to position nails where 1-5/8″ drywall screws will eventually be driven, so nail holes will not be visible in veneer.
2. With piece assembled, bore screw holes using a counter bore bit, which makes the pilot, shank, countersink and counter boreholes in one step. Note:Drive home several strategically-placed screws to secure the piece until all the holes are bored.
3. With piece assembled,measure and trim back piece to size;temporarily install with veneer side out.
4. Lightly sand cabinet using 150-grit paper in the pad sander;always use with-the-grain strokes.Thoroughly dust all surfaces and disassemble.
5. Reassemble cabinet using carpenter’s glue and 1-5/8″ drywall screws. Immediately install back piece to ensure that cabinet remains square during glue drying period. Note: Since you may want access to cabinet from the back in the future,install back using screws only-no glue.
6. Use flexible veneer tape to cover exposed plywood edges:
   • Cut tape slightly over length for each edge.
   • Work one edge at a time;apply contact cement to back of tape and mating surface,allowing adhesive to dry until itcan be touched with a piece of clean brown paper without sticking.
   • Carefully position first end of tape and guide along edge.Trim off any overlap.
   • Allow entire assembly to rest for at least four hours.

TV Tray

1. Trim TV tray to size.
2. Install turntable ( swivel ) hardware. Note: Select and install turntable hardware that will accommodate the size and weight of the television it will support.
   • Center”blind”side of turntable on tray’s underside and mark screw holes.
   • Remove turntable and bore holes for four No.6(1″long)self-tapping screws.On top side of tray,bore countersink holes (about 1/4″deep) using drill and countersink bit, so screw heads will be slightly below the wood surface when turned home.
   • To make certain that self-tapping screws are correct length and won’t interfere with turntable operation,temporarily attach the tray to the turntable by driving at least two of the screws into the turntable’s small holes.
   • Remove turntable from tray.
   • Center turntable on top of cabinet;”blind”side up,mark and bore pilot screw holes for bottom plate.
   • Lubricate turntable’s ball bearings with a light to heavy oil,depending on the degree of rotating action wanted.
   • Mount turntable on cabinet using four 1″No.8 round head wood screws.
   • Place the tray on the turntable using 6d finishing nails as guide pins to position the pre-drilled holes over the small turntable holes. Remove nails one at a time and drive home four self-tapping screws.
3. Cut the required number of 1/4″long dowel plugs from a length of 3/8″ dowel to conceal screws holding cabinet together. To keep sanding on veneer surface to a minimum,do not cut plugs too long. Squirt glue into each hole and press plugs into place. Immediately remove excess glue from surface with clean,damp rag. Allow glue to dry overnight if possible.
4. Position plate casters on underside of bottom piece; mark for screws and bore pilot holes.
5. Fasten casters to cabinet bottom using screws that come with the hardware.
6. Inspect cabinet inside and out for smoothness. Sand lightly where necessary and wipe clean.

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The basic design of this twin bed is very simple and sturdy.While templates are provided for the headboard and foot board,you can create your own pattern if you prefer.In fact,it might be a good idea to select a mattress first and then adjust the dimensions to fit.

1. Make full-size templates for the headboard(A) and foot board(B) using the patterns provided.
2. Glue up a pair of panels for the headboard and foot board from 2 x 6 and/or 2 x 8 stock. When the glue has dried, sand the panels smooth and cut them to the dimensions given.
3. Transfer the template designs to the panels. Cut out the headboard and foot board pieces,then sand their edges smooth.
4. Cut the remaining pieces to size using the dimensions provided.
5. Attach a sideboard support(E) to each foot(C) using flathead wood screws. Make two right-facing feet and two left-facing feet.



6. Fasten the feet to the headboard and footboard using glue and #10 x 2-1/2″ flathead wood screws. Drive the screws counterbored through the boards into the edges of the feet. Counterbore the holes and plug them to hide the screw heads.
7. Attach a slat support(G) to the bottom inside edge of each sideboard(D) by driving screws through the support into the sideboard. Counterbore the screws for extra holding power.
8. Attach the sideboards to the feet,resting the sideboards on the supports inside the feet. Use four flathead wood screws at each corner,fastening from the inside. Do not use glue.
9. Add the slats(F), sand the entire bed,and finish as desired.

Twin Bed Project  — List of Materials

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Making The TV Riser

First,the material that will make up the riser is glued together.

Then,dress down the glued-up panel to a flat surface and a consistent thickness. In a shop with a big planer, this involves nothing more than feeding the stock into the machine;but in a small shop, like mine, this 15″ panel must be flattened and smoothed with hand planes.

If the boards used to create the panel were all flat and all aligned correctly at glue-up,you may not need to do more than scrape away the glue squeeze-out and make a couple of token passes with a jack plane. However,boards are rarely flat,often undulating along their lengths like bacon.In such cases,more substantial plane work may be needed.

I begin by exchanging the regular iron in my jack plane for one that’s been crowned across its width.This shape eliminates the sharp corners on either side of the iron’s width,corners that can dig too deeply into the planed surface when the craftsman is attempting to remove material quickly. With this crowned iron,it’s relatively easy to re-move significant amounts of thickness. It does,however,leave a rippled,rather than smooth,surface,so it must be followed by a plane fit with a conventional iron.

Next,cut the grooves into which the scroll work will be inset.You can cut the groove across the bottom face of the top panel in one pass over a table saw fit with a 3/8″stack of dado cutters.But the grooves in the two end panels must be handled differently. Because the scroll work is only two inches high,stopped grooves are necessary.

You can cut these freehand with a mallet and chisel or start them on the table saw and finish them by hand.

The scroll is then thicknessed,ripped to width,and profiled on the band saw.

Following the procedure discussed in chapter twenty-five,cut the through dovetails joining the end and top panels.Then,glue-up the riser around the strip of scroll-work,and plug the holes in the ends of the grooves.

CUTTING A STOPPED GROOVE ON THE TABLE SAW

1 To match the 2″height of the scroll work,the groove must stop 23/8″from the top of the end panels.The extra 3/8″ provides for the 3/4″ top minus the 3/8″ groove cut into that top. The arrow penciled on the fence marks a point 2 3/8″ past the leading edge of the dado cutters.

2 When the end panel is fed into the cutters as far as the penciled arrow,the cutters have advanced the groove 2 3/8″. (Due to the circular shape of the dado cutters,a bit of material will remain in the end of the groove.This is removed with a chisel.)

GLUING-UP PANELS

1. Matching figure and color is the first step.Here,two walnut boards with sapwood edges are being matched.

2.These two pieces of cherry were both cut from the same board,assuring a consistent color.Also,making the joint at the edges of the board where the lines of figure cluster close together helps to produce an invisible glue line.

3.A wash of mineral spirits reveals color,enabling you to achieve better matches.

4. Once you have matched(or,as in this case,contrasted) color and grain,form glue joints(the lowly butt joints)on the edges of each board. These joints consist of nothing more than flat,straight planes 90°from the board’s adjacent surfaces.

You can create the joint by hand,using a jack or jointing plane.However,this is fussy work requiring experience and a steady hand.You can also create the joint on the jointer, a stationary power tool designed to perform this very task.

After cutting the joints,coat each edge with glue and align them in pipe or bar clamps.These are necessary in order to bring the joints tightly together.

Clamp arrangement should follow the pattern shown above. Position them no more than 12″-15″apart on alternate sides of the panel. After a couple of hours,you can remove them; with in eight hours,you can work the panel.

TV Riser Materials List

A   TOP       1 pc.  3/4 X 15 X 19 3/4

B    END      2 pc.  3/4 X 15 X 9 7/8

C    Scroll   1 pc.   3/8 X 2 X 19

D    Plug      2 pc.  3/8 X 3/8 X 3/8 Shaved to fit

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